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The buzz has officially reached fever pitch as the 2023 edition of the celebrated LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers has finally crowned its winners. This year marked the tenth edition of the esteemed LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers, and the Fondation Louis Vuitton in Paris was abuzz with anticipation. The final event was held on June 7th, 2023. Time to spill the tea!
The event witnessed a thrilling showdown among nine highly talented finalists, selected from a pool of 2,400 applicants. The competition was whittled down to 22 exceptional designers for the semi-finals, which took place on March 2nd and 3rd. Following this, the nine finalists were selected by both the Committee of Experts of the Prize and the public, marking a significant date in the fashion industry’s calendar.
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The jury of LVMH Prize 2023 consisted of industry stalwarts, including
- Jonathan Anderson: Artistic Director Of Loewe
- Maria Grazia Chiuri: Artistic Director Of Dior
- Nicolas Ghesquière: Artistic Director Of Women’s Collections At Louis Vuitton
- Marc Jacobs: Head Designer Of Marc Jacobs
- Kim Jones: Artistic Director Of Men’s Collection, Dior & Creative Director, Fendi
- Nigo: Artistic Director Of Kenzo
- Stella Mccartney: Artistic Director Of Stella Mccartney
- Silvia Venturini Fendi: Artistic Director Of Fendi Accessories And Menswear
- Delphine Arnault: Chairman And Chief Executive Officer Of Christian Dior Couture
- Jean-Paul Claverie: Advisor To Bernard Arnault And Director Of Corporate Sponsorship At LVMH
- Sidney Toledano: Chairman And Chief Executive Officer LVMH Fashion Group
The jury’s critical decision determined the winners of the illustrious LVMH Prize and the Karl Lagerfeld Prize.
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The finalists were an eclectic mix of designers representing diverse styles, cultures, and design philosophies. They were:
- Aaron Esh of AARON ESH, United Kingdom, menswear
- Julie Pelipas of BETTTER, Ukraine, womenswear
- Burc Akyol of BURC AKYOL, France, womenswear, menswear and genderless collections
- Rachel Scott of DIOTIMA, Jamaica, womenswear
- Raul Lopez of LUAR, United States, womenswear, menswear and genderless collections
- Luca Magliano of MAGLIANO, Italy, menswear
- Paolina Russo and Lucile Guilmard of PAOLINA RUSSO, Canada/France, womenswear
- Veronica Leoni of QUIRA, Italy, womenswear
- Satoshi Kuwata of SETCHU, Japan, genderless collections
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Championing the Intersection of East and West: Satoshi Kuwata’s Setchu
Of the nine finalists, the coveted LVMH Prize was awarded to Satoshi Kuwata, the 39-year-old Japanese designer behind the genderless brand Setchu, and a former designer for both Givenchy and YEEZY.
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Upon his win announcement, Kuwata shared with Highsnobiety that his brand isn’t named after him, attributing his success to teamwork and acknowledging the commendable support of his team. He expressed his desire to celebrate with his team and show his gratitude. He revealed that his brand name, “Setchu,” is rooted in the Japanese term “wayo setchu.” The term represents the harmonious amalgamation of Japanese and Western characteristics, a philosophy that is elegantly reflected in his designs. A brand barely three years old, has quickly gained recognition for its understated elegance and the distinct blend of Eastern and Western aesthetics. Its signature piece, the Origami jacket, embodies this ethos, featuring the clean lines of a tailored blazer fused with the artful folds reminiscent of a traditional Japanese kimono.
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Satoshi Kuwata’s journey to Setchu was paved by experiences in prominent fashion houses such as Givenchy, Christian Dior, Balenciaga, Jil Sander, and Celine. Born in Japan, he set up his label in Milan, Italy, in 2020, carefully crafting a brand identity that reflects minimalism and sophistication.
Being named the winner of the LVMH Prize marks a significant milestone in Setchu’s journey. At 39, Kuwata was at the edge of eligibility for the prize, which requires designers to be under the age of 40. With the recognition and support gained from this victory, Setchu is poised for a promising future. Kuwata envisions the label as a heritage brand, contributing to the global fashion landscape for decades to come.
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Karl Lagerfeld Prize: A Tie Between Luca Magliano and Julie Pelipas
In an unusual move, the Jury awarded two Karl Lagerfeld Prizes this year. It was a tie between Luca Magliano’s self-titled label and Ukrainian designer Julie Pelipas’ brand, Bettter. Besides the prestige, this award brings a generous cash prize of €200,000 each and a one-year LVMH Group mentorship program. Ecstatic about his win, Magliano plans to use the prize money to expand his team and solidify his brand’s structure.
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Pelipas, renowned for her innovative upcycling label Bettter, views the win as a stepping stone towards furthering her brand’s technology and positioning it aptly in the industry.
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Legacy of the LVMH Prize: Past Winners and Their Impact
Since its inception in 2014, the LVMH Prize has been a coveted award for young aspiring designers. Previous winners include Simon Porte Jacquemus, Grace Wales Bonner, and S.S. Daley, who have since gone on to make significant waves in the fashion industry.
ALSO READ: The Glow-Up Of Knitwear: The Game-Changing Designers You Need To Know In 2023
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Recognizing Emerging Talent: Commitment to Sustainability
In addition to the main awards, three recent fashion school graduates were also acknowledged. Luc Albert and Justine Janot, both hailing from Paris’s Institut Français de la Mode and Nikki Park, a graduate of the College for Creative Studies in Detroit, were each awarded €10,000. Additionally, they were presented with a unique chance to spend a year at the studios of three different LVMH Group Houses.
With the total amount of the endowments reaching €860,000 this year, the LVMH Prize continues its significant support of emerging designers. Looking ahead, the eleventh edition of the Prize will be held in 2024, and we can’t wait to see what new talent it will bring to the spotlight. Stay tuned for updates on their forthcoming collections, and their journey with their LVMH mentors.
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Featured image: ©lvmhprize (Instagram)
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