Miuccia Prada (Miu Miu, Prada)

In 2023, Prada, under the helm of Miuccia Prada, continues to dominate the fashion industry with its innovative and trend-setting designs. In an era where individuality and personal expression are increasingly valued, Prada’s ethos of defying clichés and promoting self-expression resonates strongly with consumers, making the brand more relevant and influential than ever.

Prada’s commitment to creating meaningful connections between fashion and culture, coupled with its refusal to be driven by trends or the goal of increasing sales, has allowed the brand to position itself as an influential voice in contemporary fashion discourse. Miuccia Prada’s commitment to integrity, authenticity, and personal freedom has solidified Prada’s status as a fashion powerhouse in 2023, setting standards others in the industry aspire to meet.

JW Anderson (Loewe, JWA)

JW Anderson, created by Anderson, first came into the limelight in 2012, earning the British Fashion Council’s Emerging Talent–Ready to Wear award. A year later, LVMH positioned him at the helm of Loewe. A decade on, Anderson stands as a prominent figure in fashion, delivering imaginative, engaging collections.

Anderson’s philosophy hinges on the belief that fashion is essentially storytelling. Having moved to London, he found the freedom to weave his narrative, despite his work often referencing intellectual figures.

Incorporating a playful tone, Anderson’s designs offer a unique blend of modernism and purity, standing apart from transient viral trends. Unaffected by social media’s incessant scroll, his work exudes a unique depth and sophistication.

A notable element in Anderson’s design approach is the early incorporation of gender fluidity into his line, a move made before gender-neutral fashion became mainstream.

Simon Porte Jacquemus (Jacquemus)

Simon Porte Jacquemus, a revolutionary fashion icon, skillfully leverages social media and branding to garner a loyal following, including A-list celebrities. His Paris Fashion Week debut in 2012 and viral mini-bag trendsetter, Le Chiquito, underscore his influence. Raised in southern France and mentored by Rei Kawakubo, his designs reflect his unique cheerfulness and affinity for costume design.

Unlike those emulating American culture, he drew inspiration from French icons like Serge Gainsbourg. His accessory lines, including oversized straw hats and mini bags, are popular sell-outs. A proponent of inclusivity, his “Le Splash” collection showcased diverse races, body types, and ages.

Glenn Martens (Diesel, Y/Project)

Glenn Martens’ innovative and unique approach to Diesel combines respect for the brand’s past with a vision for its future. Emphasizing denim and pioneering distressing techniques, Martens revitalized the iconic ’00s “D” logo and elevated Diesel to luxury status while preserving its rebellious spirit. His Spring/Summer 2023 collection ventured into softer materials and introduced humour and provocation into Diesel’s identity. Updating the brand’s slogan to “For Sucsexful Living,” Martens deftly balances social media engagement with high craftsmanship. His next collection is highly anticipated as a continuation of his successful Diesel rebranding.

Paco Rabanne – Julien Dossena

Julien Dossena, at the helm of Paco Rabanne for a decade, seamlessly blends the brand’s futuristic aesthetic with his unique, sensual style. Dossena’s work embraces non-traditional materials like plastic and chainmail, crafting designs with wearable luxury in mind. He continues Rabanne’s exploration of the body-material relationship, echoing the 1960s’ sexual liberation and reflecting contemporary trends towards provocative fashion.

Dossena’s designs go beyond visual appeal; innovation drives his craftsmanship, with many pieces handcrafted to perfection. Despite his dramatic approach, Dossena ensures couture quality, particularly when working with chainmail, keeping his creations modern and avoiding a sci-fi costume feel.

His ambition is more than just creating exceptional clothes; he designs to empower women, inspiring confidence and a sense of protection. Dossena’s time at Paco Rabanne highlights his commitment to creating visually stunning, emotionally empowering fashion.

Maximilian Davis (Ferragamo)

In the dynamic world of fashion, Ferragamo has traditionally struggled to reinvent itself without losing its identity, until Davis arrived. The London-born creative director was given the daunting task of leading a high-end luxury brand known for its old-world luxury. But in the fast-paced fashion scene, modernization is essential.

Davis’s work so far has been a balance of sexiness and elegance, updating Ferragamo’s legacy while respecting it. This was reflected in the recent show in Milan, where Davis’s Ferragamo fused the old and new, especially in the bags, which were redesigned to be classic, current, and directional, yet distinctly Ferragamo. This is a clear illustration of how Davis is managing the tension between the old and the new.

He’s introducing his vision into the Ferragamo story without disrupting it. This approach is helping Ferragamo maintain its identity and following and is proving to be as solid as the label’s bestsellers. Davis is not reinventing the classics, he is just letting them breathe.

images © instagram, vogue runway