Paris Fashion Week: In a compelling showcase on Thursday, January 18, 2024, fashion icon Rick Owens presented his Fall 24 Men’s Collection, a bold testament to challenging societal norms and fostering a sense of community during these tumultuous times. The collection was titled “Porterville” after the city in California where he was born in 1961.
Owens initiated the collection with a nod to the current societal challenges, describing it as a “respectful move in observance of the barbaric ties through which we are living.” Yet, he candidly acknowledges the unintended consequences of potentially excluding a community that might have found solace in his show, prompting him to reconsider the approach.
In a collaborative spirit, Owens invited some of his favorite utopian creatives who epitomize defiance and complete commitment to their aesthetic. Among them, London designer Straytukay contributed to the collection with inflated rubber pull-on stretch boots, showcasing a unique blend of architectural volumes and technical construction.
The fashion maestro also drew inspiration from the online world, expressing admiration for a cheekily improvised version of his iconic Kiss Boot. Permission to produce them was sought and granted from London designer Leo Prothman, demonstrating a collaborative and adaptive approach to fashion.
Matisse Di Maggio, a member of the Parisian BDSM community specializing in rubber gear, contributed to the collection by crafting jackets and pants from recycled discarded bicycle tires, further emphasizing sustainability and unconventional materials.
Noteworthy appearances on the runway included Steven from Fecal Matter and Gena Marvin. Fecal Matter, known for balancing condemning judgment with cheerful depravity, aligns with Owens’ ethos. Gena Marvin’s documentary, capturing her commitment to her aesthetic in Russia, adds a poignant layer to the show, emphasizing diversity and resilience in the face of adversity.
The collection itself is a howling reaction to some of the most disappointing human behavior witnessed in our lifetime. Grotesque and inhuman proportions serve as a powerful commentary on societal challenges, while simultaneously embodying an eternal utopian hope for a better future.
Fabrics take center stage with knit space suits crafted from recycled cashmere, alpaca, or merinos, alongside turbo-ply shrouds and hoodies. Shaggy jumpsuits and capes made from heavyweight felt with the longest alpaca fibers on a silk warp provide tactile and visual contrasts.
Japanese denim, a staple in Owens’ collections, is treated with layers of wax and foil, pressed and washed for a distinctive appearance. The show’s venue, held in Owens’ home and working compound, pays homage to the brand’s roots, marking 25 years since the inception of selling collections there.
Rick Owens’ Fall 2024 Men’s Collection is a striking blend of defiance, unity, and aesthetic innovation, reinforcing his status as a boundary-pushing force in the fashion industry.
all images @theimpression
